iPod Nano 5. Generation Display tauschen

My ribbon broke.

I see that on the pictures further down, you removed the covering plate, which I would suggest to do, as it'll put less weight on the ribbon.

Luckily, we can find spare ones. In fact it doesn't sell alone, it's with the earphones jack.

could you elaborate more as to how did you remedy the broken ribbon?

is the broken ribbon fixable?

I would recommend using a heat gun.

At this point, I find it helps to separate the lock switch from the top metal casting. You then have just the switch dangling on the fragile ribbon cable. Much less likely to snag or break the ribbon. Just loosen (Don't remove completely) the two Phillips screws. The heavy clunky casting bit can be removed.

The iPod I repared had a cracked screen. Caution here because it doesn't pop out that easily. I had to apply some force on the plastic opening tool while using another tool to take out the shards (who are glued to the side).

90% guaranteed you will destroy the LCD in this step. You just dont know how much for to use and if you stress the LCD too much, even with a plastic tool it will be damaged.That’s why ifixit sells those too. My advice is to first completely follow this guide, and if successful, and only then , start ordering parts.

It might be a good idea to remove all the adhesive from the screen before trying to slide the internals out. I had a nightmare trying to get mine out, ended up cutting my thumb and finger from holding onto the edges of the screen too tight trying to wiggle it out. And then to top it off, I broke the hold switch ribbon cable too. I don’t know how much the screen glue vs the battery glue was responsible for making it difficult to remove. Also when sliding it out, be careful the lip on the lower edge of the button hole doesn’t snag on the thin steel frame around the screen.

Is it really needed to remove the glas? Can‘t you just slide out the logic board when glas remains?

On the Nano I worked on I had to do steps 12-14 before step 10 because the metal plate on the bottom is one of the two things holding the click wheel in place.

A flathead screwdriver or even a tooth pick will do better in this step.

Use extreme care when inserting the metal plunger to lift up the click wheel. I ended up damaging one of the sensor pads and then needed to order a new click wheel circuit. Not very expensive to replace but I had not intended to replace this item and so my finished repair was delayed.

also, like someone mentioned below, be careful of the small plastic piece and tiny spring that will fall out after you remove the click wheel.

In the second photo where you can see under the click wheel, just above the square black piece with the apple on it is a black rectangle with a hole in the center. There will be a spring in the hole. Remove the spring and the black piece it is in and set aside or they will fall out and get lost.

Use a heatgun/hairdryer for a very long time and use a cutter knife and pry continuously only from the right bottom corner (near the camera lens). If you don't get it open use the heatgun once more.

Alternatively use a fabric bag filled with chick peas, put it in a microwave for 4 mn at power 600w and leave it to rest on the iPod 10 / 15 mn. It does the same job. I also use a fresh stanley knife blade (mind your fingers) the blade is very slim and is therefore easier to wedge between the casing and the cover.

In case anyone else didn't realize this, you need to push your spudger fairly deep into the iPod to completely seperate the glue from the battery. I just stuck mine in maybe half an inch, then spent 30 minutes struggling to move the logic board. After removing all of the glue, it slid out with relative ease.

I didn’t have a spudger so I used a metal nail file with a rounded end. Heated the back of the iPod with a hair dryer for about a minute first to soften the adhesive and it all worked fairly smoothly. Be gentle with the lcd display.

Keep in mind the only glue holding the logic board to the metal case is a small rectangle of adhesive. In the picture, the author is just scraping away at the glue. You don’t need to insert your spudger any lower than half an inch as there isn’t any other adhesive holding the logic board to the metal case . Once the glue has been scraped away, then the board should slide out easily. If it doesn’t slide out, then the adhesive is still there.

I tried this but with the Nano I worked on the retainer cannot be pushed down, instead there is a small diagonal hole in the retainer that you can fit a pin or needle into and lift out the retainer.

Yeah step 18 is BS, You need to pull the retainer up with a pin, not depress it. I destroyed my first nano as i pushed so hard trying to depress it that it deformed and I had to give up. Bad bad tip that needs correcting at step 18.

It can be pulled out with tweezers.

I submitted an edit for this step. The first bullet (about the spudger not being needed once the retainer is past the hole in the case) is now irrelevant because step 17 now has us removing the retainer completely.

I accidentally snapped the little ribbon that held the top of the device. Is it fixable?

Perhaps this one? iPod Nano 4th/5th Generation Hold/Lock Switch Ribbon Cable Repair

On mine, there was yellow tape covering both the display ribbon connector and the adjacent S-shaped ribbon on the logic board - I had to lift the tape away from the display ribbon and cut it, leaving the tape covering the S-shaped ribbon. There was extra tape at the other end, too. I wasn't going to cut it, but the rubbery/foam stuff on the back of the display ribbon connector was stuck to the tape, with the new ribbon below, it was too thick. I replaced the tape with new, because re-assembling without tape, the rubbery foam stuff smears off on the housing as you push the assembly back in.

The metal clips didn't really retain the display on mine, I got the impression they're just contact fingers which bear on the metal switchplate when the iPod is assembled.